The year has kicked off on a solid note. Just last month, I did the beach trek in Gokarna, and following that, this month I went to Coorg for the Tadiandamol trek. The last time I visited Coorg was about five years ago, just after COVID. Back then, it felt mildly pleasant, maybe because pollution levels were low and economic activity was largely subdued which also meant nature was in full bloom.
I went for the Tadiandamol trek with the Bangalore Mountaineering Club, and there were about twelve of us in the group. I boarded the bus from Richmond Town on Friday night, and by 4am on Saturday we reached Kaveri Estates. A jeep picked us up from there and took us further inside to the homestay, nestled amidst Coorg’s lush vegetation. I was one of the people standing in the cargo area of the jeep. It was damn cold and we had a sort of roller-coaster ride at the back. The bonus, though, was a sky full of stars and a hare hopping around along the off-road trail.
We reached the homestay, which had fairly basic facilities. I spotted a big ass spider right near my bed. It definitely looked wild. We somehow managed to get rid of it, and all of us crashed for about two hours.
By 7am, we were up as per schedule and ready for breakfast. We hopped onto the jeep again and headed back to Kaveri Estate, who were providing our meals and enabling the overall experience.
It felt really good to be back in Coorg. I remember the last time I was here, I was a clumsy 20-year-old who had somehow managed to self-drive to Coorg along with his three friends.
Mornings were the best part back then, and even now actually. Life seemed to be springing out of the soil everywhere. Soft sunbeams filtered through the trees, and there was a riot of green all around. Of course, parts of it existed for purely economic reasons, like coffee and areca nut plantations, but the untouched stretches felt almost ethereal. For reference, here’s what I mean –
If I was a tree, I would totally enjoy photosynthesizing here. Morning dew still clung to the leaves, fog hovered at eye level, and voila it was time for breakfast. I devoured shavige bath and idlis, but the real highlight was the estate coffee. Unlike Bangalore coffee, it had no chicory, so it wasn’t harsh, acidic, or overpowering. Actually, just strong enough for me to get going for the trek.
About the Tadiandamol Trek
The trail to the summit is about 7 km long. The peak itself is 1,748 metres, making it the tallest in the Kodagu district and the third highest in Karnataka after Mullayanagiri and Baba Budangiri.
The trek begins near Nalknad Palace (more on that below). From here, you walk roughly 3 km to reach the forest checkpost. This stretch is a steady incline, winding through a canopy of trees and colourful meadows.
We reached the forest checkpost in about an hour. The officials asked for our PAN details and had us sign a register, which we were required to sign again after coming back. While this was happening, I asked the forest officer what “Tadiandamol” actually means and how the mountain got its name. He explained that the original name is Thadiyandamol, which translates to “fat man’s daughter,” mol means daughter and thadiya means a fat person in Malayalam. It’s quite similar to the Kannada word dhadiya. A fellow Malayali in our group confirmed this interpretation as well.
That being said, some sources also suggest the name comes from Kodava words Thadi meaning broad or large, Anda/Yenda meaning belonging to or mine, and Mol referring to a hill or peak.
Both could be true, or perhaps one is true. I shall dig into this further and update here.
After the checkpost, the trail becomes lil steeper. In the initial stretch through the forest, all I could hear was a birdsong. One of the fellow trekkers pointed out that most of the trees were covered in moss and lichen, which indicated how pure the air is here.
As we walked, some of my fellow trekkers spoke about how, if you’re a hardcore trekker, Himalayan treks are something you must experience. Listening to them talk so passionately, I got so inspired. I asked one of them what would be a good gateway Himalayan trek for a first-timer who is reasonably fit. He gave me two options:
1. Valley of Flowers
2. Sandakphu
I immediately added these to my bucket list.
Eventually, we reached the summit and sat down for lunch. I tried to see as far as I could, but the view was hazy. I could still see faint silhouettes of mountain tops stretching endlessly into the distance. The summit itself is largely grassland, dotted with black, volcanic rocks that make for perfect resting spots.
How difficult is the Tadiandamol trek?
If you’re a regular trekker, this one is quite easy. For first-timers, it can be a bit challenging but you’ll feel accomplished after it. Compared to other Western Ghats treks, it’s less intense, with a well-laid-out trail leading to the summit.
I wasn’t sore afterward, and I feel as long as you stay hydrated and keep your energy levels up, you’ll be totally fine. I was honestly in the mood to go on another trek the very next day.
The views from the top
The slopes are a mix of dense forests and patches of dry, exposed soil. Standing there, I felt oddly relieved that not every mountain is easily accessible to humans and their sense of vanity. Some places should belong to nature first.
Nalknad Palace
Built by: Doddaveerarajendra
Year: 1792
Post-trek, we visited Nalknad Palace, located at the base of the trail, right next to a government school which apparently had only 12 students.
The palace was built as a hideout for the Kodava kings, which makes perfect sense given its location in the middle of a jungle. It’s a two-storeyed structure and served as the last refuge of Chikkaveerarajendra before he surrendered to the British in 1834.
It was closed when we arrived. We somehow managed to make our way inside through a small passage near the main entrance. The palace is largely in ruins and this is not one of those regal European-style palaces one might imagine.
Outside, there’s a small temple-like structure with desecrated murtis on its walls. We also saw symbols representing the sun, and the outer structure had Nandi figures facing four corners. Interestingly, these weren’t the usual Nandis because their ears weren’t upright like the ones seen alongside Shiva temples. It has probably got to do with Kodava iconography because they revere cattle too.
During my trek, I came across several fascinating facts about the Kodava people. They are among the oldest tribes in India, with their earliest references found in Sangam literature dating back nearly 3,000 years. They are a martial community by tradition and they don’t follow the conventional Hindu way of life. Instead, their practices revolve around ancestral worship, the worship of river Goddess Kaveri, and their harvest deities Igguthappa and Bhagavathi. Their weddings do not involve Brahminical priests, and the community has historically been endogamous. In fact, India’s second Field Marshal, General K. M. Cariappa, was a Kodava himself.
Coming back to the palace, I honestly felt the government could have done a better job preserving it. It’s in a state of utter neglect, and given how sturdy and beautiful the architecture still is, it was quite sad to see it slowly crumbling away.
We returned from the trek to Kaveri Estates, where we stopped for a tea break along with some hot menshinkay bhajji.
On our way back, we noticed a small river stream flowing right beside our homestay. We decided to stop there and soak our feet, and honestly, it was the best decision.
The cold river water rushed past as we sat right at its edge, and the constant turbulence of the stream gave our feet a nice massage. The temperature began to drop and I was quietly observing the stillness around me.
Day one ended with a campfire under a starlit sky. I took a moment to simply soak in the awe of it all and to top it off, I even spotted two shooting stars.
The next morning, we headed back to Bangalore, with a stop at the Golden Temple along the way.
About the Golden Temple, Coorg
Thousands of diyas were lit at the Namdroling Monastery and the atmosphere was so serene. The monastery is part of a Tibetan settlement, and the entry is free. It was worth stopping by just to take in the sheer grandeur of the structure. The wall paintings were incredibly intricate. The yantra looking ceiling paintings were a sight to behold.
Inside, there is a massive statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, with his two disciples/emanations – Guru Padmasambhava and Buddha Amitayus on the side. There was a painting where the head of a dragon jutted out from the wall. We walked around for some time in the campus and then made our way back to the van to head to Bangalore.
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